15. Bai Dau

Bai Dau is the name of a beach located in the West of Big Mountain along Tran Phu Street, about 3km to the North of White Palace. Bai Dau was formerly known as Vung May because there were a lot of Calameae trees in the Big Mountain back then. In the 1930s, a French trader came to Vung May to set up an establishment to grow mulberries and raise silkworms. Everywhere on the mountain slopes and along Vung May beach, lush mulberry trees gradually dominate calameae trees, which are also being exploited to the point of exhaustion. So according to the natural law, the name Vung May gradually went into oblivion, and the local people called this Bai Dau. Bai Dau was later called Phuong Thao beach by the government of Vung Tau township in Phuoc Tuy province, as the name of a charming girl, but this name was not popular.

In the beginning, Bai Dau was just a small bay at the foot of the Big Mountain. Today, the range of Bai Dau has been expanded to include small coves around the Big Mountain. Because it is located on the mountainside close to the sea, Bai Dau is created into many lovely small bays, smooth white sand, and a sheltered beach. There are many coastal spots close to the foot of the mountain, forming steep cliffs, whispering waves, and white foam creating spectacular beauty. Tran Phu Street hangs on the cliff that is the boundary between the sea and the mountains; the road not only creates convenient transportation but also attracts tourists because of its breathtaking beauty.

Bai Dau at night seems secluded and lonely, suitable for quiet souls who like to find tranquil places… In front of Bai Dau is a peaceful sea and behind is a quiet and tranquil Big Mountain covered with lush greenery. It is uncertain if tourists come to Bai Dau because they are fascinated with the natural scenery here,but it is certain that Bai Dau attracts tourists because of its diverse beauty between day and night. The night is quiet as if it carries many feelings of the sea. During the day, Bai Dau brings a lively and cheerful beauty. During the four seasons, Bai Dau is crowded with visitors who come to immerse themselves in the clear blue water and enjoy the view of the mountains and forests.

In addition to pristine beauty and a greatly sheltered beach for tourists to swim, Bai Dau is also home to many religious architecture and historical vestiges hidden in the quiet space of the green of Big Mountain. That is the Temple of the Holy Mother of God with a 7 meters high statue of the Virgin Mary inaugurated in 1968 with the benevolent face alooking out to the sea. And not far away is a large park on the mountainside with over 30 meters high statue of the Virgin Mary built by the Catholic Association.

Mountains have always been the convergence of gods, but the Big Mountain of Bai Dau is unique in that it is the convergence of both major religions. Next to the Holy Temple with two statues of Mother Maria are many Buddhist temples: Guan Yin Temple, Hung Thang Tu Pagoda,… and many large-scale Buddha statues; both religions meet on this high place, together carry out the mission of bringing humanity towards truth, goodness and beauty.

Each place often lingers with visitors because of its legendary stories, half true and half untrue, which sound strangely attractive. In Bai Dau, visitors will hear about a freshwater well that has never dried up and also respectfully referred as Gia Long royal well. The story goes that:

When Quang Trung Nguyen Hue pursued, the remnants of Nguyen Anh’s army retreated by water to the coast of Vung Tau, which was also far away from Nguyen Hue’s army, Nguyen Anh let the soldiers rest at the foot of the Big Mountain, currently known as Bai Dau. At that time, Vung Tau peninsula had no inhabitants, it was the dry season of the South, and there was not a single drop of fresh water. Due to the dilemma of the mutiny, Nguyen Anh had to stay permanently in Vung May, but he could not live without fresh water. In a difficult situation, Nguyen Anh ordered his soldiers to set up an incense burner in the sky, to pray: I am Nguyen Phuc Anh, in the middle of a desperate situation, I was led here. My Lord is in danger of water shortage. If I am the person with the mission to restore the mountains and rivers to unify the country, ask for the grace of God to witness my wishes, and place my sword in this sacDat Do where a spring of water flows to save you in times of danger; otherwise, this is already the point of death, the Nguyen dynasty’s inheritance will be destroyed, please for this wish to be fulfilled.

Having finished speaking, Nguyen Anh stuck his sword into the ground; after withdrawing the sword, a stream of fresh water flowed out. Soldiers dug here a well enough to provide fresh water for Nguyen Anh’s army. The above story has been passed down in folklore since then. People respectfully call the well, which is less than 50cm wide and less than 1 meter deep, but is always full of cool and sweet water, Gia Long royal well. In 1965, Thanh Tam Dao Vien deepened and rebuilt the well with bricks and cement. Next to that well, it is unknown when people have erected the shrine of the famous Ba Ngu Hanh.

No one can verify whether the above legend is true or not, but a fresh water well that has never dried up right on the beach is an interesting thing, which is worthy of being treasured by the people and spreading the story of Gia Long well until now.

Bai Dau has a special location, right to the East of Ganh Rai Bay and on the gateway to the Saigon River. Therefore, from Bai Dau, we can observe trains full of goods coming in and out of the Saigon River, Petroleum port… Due to that prime location, from the Nguyen Dynasty, then the French and American dynasties, the authorities all paid attention to the military position of Bai Dau.

The French built here a artillery battlefield to protect the gateway to the Saigon River. After that, the Japanese fascists also built an arsenal of ammunition and mine shafts. And at the height of the top of Big Mountain, on the same level as Bai Dau, the Parapon antenna is the once divine eye of anti-Americanism.

Nowadays, all the vestiges are just to look back and mark a period of war that has passed, so that each person today can more cherish the peaceful days they have and love more the moments of being with loved ones in the waves on an exquisite beach, freely admiring natural scenery, and breathing fresh air at this place.